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COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE — People who call themselves gurus usually aren’t. The real experts don’t need to call themselves that — other people do it for them. It’s the same way about gastropubs. The Belle and Dragon in Makati doesn’t brand itself as one, but it is the real deal.
Situated on busy Carlos Palanca Street in Legaspi Village — establishments there range from high-end wine and cocktail bars (Cyrano, The Curator, The Plantation) to lower end shops (Fortune Burger and Noodle House) — the entrance is through a patio bar that was very full of people when I arrived last week at 10pm.
It boasts six taps: three local microbrews (Pedro Pale Ale, Pedro White Ale, Pearl of the Orient Pale Ale), Hoegaarden, Stella Artois and Paulaner Munchner Hell.
I started with cocktails, passing up the signatures to see if they got the classics right. The Negroni (PHP300) was excellent. Other Old Fashioneds I’ve tried in the city tend to be either too sweet or too boozy, but this was perfectly balanced. The Martini (PHP300), while passable even if I couldn’t detect the bitters, was served with two olives floating in a toothpick. To fish it out, I had to dip my fingers into the drink. Not a good feeling.
All drinks were made at the interior bar which is separated from the patio bar by a window running its length, and the barbacks were pretty busy, so while service was swift, the staff didn’t linger for conversations. By the time I picked up my freshly made drink, the server was already assisting someone else.
Stepping inside for dinner, I found myself in a one-room noisy pub with people happily chatting away over rock music. The music was loud enough to know the establishment was playing something, but not so loud that people had to shout in order to hear each other. Later in the evening the music switched to EDM and rose with the energy in the pub.
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A huge chalkboard towered over the door, listing the menu. A series of black and white photos, showing a couple in each one, lined the right wall: Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love, Johhny Depp and Kate Moss, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, Kermit and Miss Piggy. The open plan and high ceiling made the pub feel bigger than it actually was. The interior and patio were both brightly lit, and the dining area faintly smelled like the food on offer, which is to say it smelled good.
I was impressed with my server’s knowledge of the dishes. Throughout the meal, service was prompt, and when my hand went up for a refill of my water or a new drink, I was speaking to a waiter within seconds. When it comes to eats, The Belle and Dragon bills itself as “East meets pub,” and this is well reflected in the menu, which has both Western and East-West fusion.
As a light starter, the Garlic Umami Chips were great. The Thunder Thighs — thick boneless chicken thighs glazed with buffalo sauce — were heavier and managed to stay crunchy despite being glazed, which many buffalo chicken dishes fail to do. The Belle and Dragon does a nice job of maintaining some pub staples (fish and chips, bangers and mash) yet delivering tremendous culinary diversity with original dishes (Chicken Karaage Bao, Tikka Masala Pie). The Campfire Fondue (PHP240) is basically smores on a plate.
The entrées are divided into three categories: pies, mains, and sandwiches. I had one of each. Presentation of every dish was excellent.
The Mac and Cheese Pie (PHP490) was topped with a woven bacon lattice which tasted as good as it looked. Macaroni-and-cheese tend to fall into two camps: wet and creamy, or dry and tangy. This was the dry and tangy type, which had a nice cheddar finish I really enjoyed. The lettuce in the side salad that accompanied my pie was crispy-fresh. I wish they hadn’t put it in the same take-out container as the leftover pie though, because the vinaigrette didn’t taste good on the mac and cheese pie the next day.
The Double Dragon Burger (PHP490), a best seller, had two patties, Red Leicester cheddar, and caramelized onions on a potato bun which didn’t fall apart despite being soft. It was a decent burger, and I’d order it again, although medium rare. A burger done right should drip as you eat it.
I lived in South Korea for four years and am interested to try anything Korean, so I got the Kalbi Stew (PHP480). Kalbi is Korean short rib meat marinated in a uniquely Korean fermented soy sauce called ganjang, then usually barbecued. Sometimes it is made into a stew called kalbijjim.
The Belle and Dragon’s Kalbi Stew uses the term “stew” loosely, since it is stewed galbi served on a bed of mashed potatoes. It has Seoul. As it hit my tongue, memories of Korea flooded back; that’s how authentic the taste was. The string beans and mashed potatoes were a good match, although the mashed potatoes were of the “silken” variety which means they were whipped extremely fine. I prefer a more substantial mashed potato.
Every course, someone came over to ask how the food was, and I noticed one of the owners kept a watchful eye on the front of house all evening long, both nights I was there. At the top of the menu it indicates “dry run”. If that’s the case, I can’t wait to see the wet run.
The Belle & Dragon, G/F C Palanca Bldg, 100 Carlos Palanca Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City; +63 2 8345292. For operating hours, check their Facebook Page.
Coconuts Critic’s Table reviews are written based on unannounced restaurant visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts Manila. No freebies here.
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