COCONUTS HOT SPOT – It’s been a tough few months for Hong Kong chef Gianni Caprioli. Business has been slow at his Admiralty restaurant Giando given its proximity to the Occupy movement, and a heated spat with a couple of food bloggers probably didn’t help either. He’s ending the year on a high note, however, as he opens casual Italian eatery EAT.it in Causeway Bay.
Located at the northeastern most corner of the two-block district known as “Fashion Walk,” the part-market, part-trattoria concept serves up simple but tasty Italian favourites. Think of it as a food court with a difference, with stations offering antipasti, insalate, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, soup, desserts and drinks.
For better or worse, EAT.it is in a very quiet corner of Causeway Bay facing Victoria Park. The windows get lots of light and the space is airy and free of the manic crowds just up the road. For a quiet cup of coffee and conversation it’s great, but it might be a challenge for Caprioli business-wise since there’s little foot traffic. That won’t be an issue if he can generate word of mouth, however.
Chef Gianni Caprioli
What Caprioli delivers is very fine artesian ingredients, with everything coming directly from Italy. There’s also enough variety to pick from, even though there aren’t proper main courses.
A good selection of insalate includes Rucola (arugula with semidried tomatoes), Niçoise (tuna, green beans, egg and olives), Gorgonzola Pera e Noci (lettuce, arugula, pear, gorgonzola, and walnut) and Costiera (shrimp, calamari, corn, tomato with a spicy dressing). Prices range from HKD58 for a regular-sized Cesarina (Caesar salad) to HKD138 for the seafood in the Costiera.
Antipasti include a satisfying plate of Prosciutto and Buffalo Mozzarella (HKD148), along with daily specials, like haricot beans, marinated beetroots and a pasta salad.
The pizzas are all good, so try some different toppings like the Tonno (with tuna, red onion, tomato and mozzarella), the Capricciosa (cooked ham, mushroom, olive and artichoke) or the Friarella (sausage, ricotta and the Spinach-like green known in English as rapini). They range in price from HKD36 to HKD44 a slice – all very reasonable.
If there’s a must-try offering, it’s Caprioli’s fresh homemade pasta, with and without egg. All the standard favourite sauces like Ragu, Pesto and Carbonara are here, but try the shiny black-coloured fresh squid ink Nero de Seppa with Octopus (HKD148) for something different. Squid ink is not available everywhere, so it’s a bit of a luxury ingredient, and the briny subtle taste of the sea is a treat.
Nero de Seppa with Octopus
Desserts include homemade Gelato and very authentic Tiramisu. We could smell the espresso component of the latter before we even tasted it.
EAT.it might not offer the haute decor of aspirational Italian ristorantes, but as anyone who’s been to Italy knows, the best places to eat are the local neighbourhood haunts. We’re glad Caprioli has brought a bit of this noble slice of Italy to Hong Kong.
EAT.it, 9 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, (+852) 2489-8822.
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