Vientiane, the capital city of Laos, is far from exciting or thrilling. It’s the last place you should visit if you’re looking for a boozy adventure along the lines of Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas.
For most, the city’s reputation revolves around one major tourist attraction: the Patuxay Arch (Victory Monument), which is a click-and-go sort of place, where even the most enthusiastic photo lovers will spend no more than 15 minutes.
However, the slow pace of this small city, as well as its smooth roads, make it a great subject for exploration by bicycle. It’s also good to know that most things in Vientiane are quite affordable if you’re traveling on a small budget. Most shopkeepers speak Thai and Thai baht is widely accepted. Be prepared, though, to receive your change in the local currency – Kip.
Where to stay:
Avalon Hotel (70 Rue Phnom Pen Unit 8, Ban Anou Chanthaburi District) is a practical hotel in every sense. Location wise, it’s within walking distance of the major dining and sightseeing areas. Its affordability and cleanliness are also major pluses. If you’re traveling alone, the rate for a single room is just THB540, while a double room starts at THB990. These rates include a lovely breakfast of eggs cooked any way you like, local fruits and a selection of bread, including the best homemade croissants you could wish for. The skillfully made, buttery pastries no doubt emerged from the country’s intimate history with the French. Although bicycles are not available for rent at the hotel, there are rental spots within walking distance and the hotel offers a safe place to store them.
Where to rent bicycles:
Noy’s Fruit Heaven (Heng Boun Rd., Ban Haysok) is less than a five-minute stroll from the Avalon Hotel. You can’t miss the colorful mountain of fruits on display at the front of the café. Its staff is friendly and speaks perfect English. Its menu is filled with sandwiches, baguettes and fresh fruit smoothies. Also listed in the menu are options for bicycle rentals.
Rates are reasonable, starting at just 10,000 Kip (THB40) for a half day. Sometimes the bicycles are all rented out, but when that happens the staff at Noy’s are more than happy to point you towards another bike rental spot not far away.
What to see:
You can begin your bike tour of the city by riding southeast on Setthathirat Street. You will pass by some beautiful colonial architecture that the French left behind in the late 1800s. Take a left on Lanexang Avenue, which will bring you to Patuxay Arch, also known as the Arc de Triomphe of Vientiane. If the sun is blazing hot, this is your chance to take a breather and enjoy some cool shade under the structure. Feel free to park your bicycle close to the Arc, but you can ride throughout the venue’s garden and fountain area as well. You also have the option of climbing to the top of the Patuxay Arc for an unobstructed, bird’s eye view of the city. It will cost THB40 and you will need to go up five flights of stairs.
After visiting the Arc, continue riding approximately two miles northeast on 23 Singha Road. If you’re not sure where this road is, local tour guides who happen to be at the Arc can show you where it is. Once on the road, you will come to Pha That Luang, a lar,ge 24-carat gold Buddhist stupa, the national symbol of Laos. In case you don’t know, a stupa is the place where Buddhist monks go to meditate. The shimmering gold of the 45-meter high structure can be seen from a mile away. You can ride your bicycle up to the entrance and pay an entrance fee of 4,000 Kip (THB15) to access the inside of the temple grounds. There, a stunning Buddha awaits.
Just outside the stupa is a market where local vendors sell tapestries (THB200), jewelry (THB100) and other local goods that can make fine souvenirs. A set of four toiletry bags can be purchased for only THB100. The vendors can speak Thai so you might want to try your bargaining skills in that language. Refreshments such as fresh coconuts and popsicles are also available here.
Where to eat:
Joma Bakery Cafe (Th. Setthathilath, near Namphou Fountain) is the spot for those growing homesick for some western fare. If local Laotian cuisine is not your cup of tea, and you don’t mind paying non-local prices, then head to Joma for their wide selection of sandwiches, soup and baked goods American/Canadian style. You can get a slice of vegetarian pizza for 21,000 Kips (THB 75). The cafe also offers a nice selection of coffees brewed from locally grown organic, Arabica beans. It’s a comfortable place to escape the heat and there are plenty of places to park your bicycle just outside the cafe. You may also want to catch up on emails and social media here using the complimentary WiFi.
Khop Chai Deu (54 Th. Setthathilath), one of Vientiane’s most famous restaurants, sits just across from Joma. In the evenings, dinner reservations may be necessary as the place gets packed with both local and foreign diners who like to enjoy their meals along with the live music that starts here at 8:30pm. Khop Chai Deu’s vast menu offers Thai, Indian, Chinese, Western and Laotian fare. We recommend trying some local dishes such as the chicken steamed in banana leaves (25,000 Kip or THB90). Fresh vegetable spring rolls (25,000 Kip or THB90) are also well done here. The restaurant’s lunch buffet allows you to try a variety of dishes, including barbecue grill items at just 49,000 Kip or THB180. Outdoor seating is great for people watching and socializing with the diverse crowd that wanders through Khop Chai Deu’s doors.
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