Sheepshank: Take your palate on naval adventure or stay close to shore

COCONUTS HOTSPOT — You’ve probably never heard of the dragon pine nut, and that’s because Phra Athit’s new Sheepshank Public House says its the first to use the Laos-sourced nut for culinary purposes. The Dracontomelon macrocarpum is mainly found at high altitudes inhabited by Laotian and Vietnamese hill tribes. Sheepshank hopes this nut can produce sustainable income for hill tribes while fostering the important relationship between people and the land.

It’s this sort of innovation and organic-minded approach that makes Chef Joke’s second restaurant (he’s also behind the popular Seven Spoons) stand out in Phra Athit’s quickly growing scene.

Themes from Seven Spoons make their way into the new place, but the setting is entirely different.

The new Sheepshank retains some aesthetic elements of its former status as a shipyard. A worn crane-and-pulley system pay homage to the days when Phra Athit was an active trading port. Floor to celling windows facing the river allow diners a pleasant view of the sun slowly fading into the waterfront horizon during dinner hours. Exposed brick walls, polished concrete floors and bentwood chairs round out the industrial theme.

While the setting may feel utilitarian, the menu borders on elaborate, with heavy-hitting meats like beef tenderloin and lamb done with rosemary and juniper balancing out lighter fare such as cod done in vanilla butter and the aforementioned dragon pine nut. These mains are perfect for sharing, whereas the One Dish section of the menu offers smaller plates of pasta and a welcome version of paella (THB340). Fettuccini (THB280) comes with a buttery salmon sauce as well as tortellini (THB320) stuffed with oxtail chunks.   

Diners looking to try something totally different should load up on a few appetizers, as this is the most experimental section of the menu. Try the Egyptian-influenced grilled halloumi with dukkah (THB220) or razor clams (THB320) with an Italian twist. There’s also a rich chicken-liver pate (THB220), another rarity in the Bangkok scene.

There is a bar in the dining area, but it seems most diners opt for the tables at the moment, although it would be an excellent place for rivergazing over a cocktail. An Italian beer selection and Brewdog’s lineup are available as an alternative to the extensive cocktail list.

Sheepshank isn’t right on the main drag, it requires a short trip through a warehouse-turned-parking garage to reach the waterfront venue.

Photos: Courtesy Sheepshank Public House

FIND IT:

Sheepshank Public House

47 Phra Arthit Road

Look for the sign on the street and then head into the parking garage



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